You need some way to keep the RiffRaff in
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Is it more important to keep the ghouls in, or people out?

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 To start with, this is another low cost fence, though more expensive that the original arced top with skull finial fencing in the previous how-to. Again, the greatest single expense was probably the paint. I found that people walking by during the month prior and after halloween were tearing off the skull finials, so I wanted to move those fence sections into the yard away from the front walkand replace those sections with something taller, a bit more formal and with a finial less likely to be removed.

 To make two ten footer sections of fencing, get one 2"x4"x10' (approx. three bucks), then mark the pieces on center 6" in from the ends, and then 9" on center between. Drill these marks through with a 7/8" diameter drill bit. I used a forstner bit, since I like a clean exit. Before you put this all to one side, drill a 3/16" hole 1/2" from each end. Once drilled, cut it lengthwise, into 4 -  3/4"x10' strips.

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This will give you thirteen holes for fence and two mount holes.

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A view of one end as it would be after drilling and separated.

 This is easiest and fastest if you drill through the 2x4 then cut into strips creating four rails.

 Next take 9 pieces of 10' 1/2" diameter PVC electrical conduit (.87 cents per), the gray stuff with flared ends, to make your stiles, and cut them into :

 26) 39" long 
save all remainders, and cut sections leaving the flared ends as your scrap, you will use these later)

 Next take two pieces of 2" diameter PVC electrical conduit (3.49 per), and cut it into :

 3) 41.5" sections

 These will be the fence posts.

 From a section of 3" diameter pipe (here the grey is preferred to the white due to its characteristics to be explained shortly) cut 1" wide rings, at least 12 per fence section, and up to 24 depending on how you want your final design (I went with 12 per). 

 On a flat, non-stick surface (wax paper or foil will do fine) dab a glob of PVC cement on a spot on 2 rings, let the cement stand for 30 seconds then butt those globs together creating a figure 8. Put these aside and let sit overnight if possible. These will be ornamental elements between the upper and mid rails of your fence posts.

 I painted the whole fence section after it was assembled, but I leave this up to you.

 Now assemble the fence sections, Use a few pieces of scrap 2"x4" on the wide side as a guide to give the height of the bottom stile (1.5") in relation to the bars.

 Then attach those together. I found a nail gun with 7/8" brads worked great and was quick.

 Now slide the remaining rails on the top of the fence stiles, measure 3.5" from the top of the stile and fasten the upper rail here.

 Take your previously made 3" PVC figure 8s, and use them to determine the spacing between the upper and mid rail. Nail the mid rail in place. Slide the figure 8 into place and fasten to the mid rail by shooting a nail into the base of the rings into the mid rail, you can flip the fence and do likewise to the top rail.

 The fence should look like above.

 While these set and cure saw into the previously cut posts to make a 7/8" slot 3.5" from the top, 3" from the bottom, and another slot approx. 3.5" down from the bottom of the top slot aligned on  the center of the posts on one side, or opposing sides, if you intend to make this a post between fence sections. A tablesaw with a fence and dado blade make this easy, but you can get away with a regular blade if a dado isn't handy.

posts cut to length and slotted on one and two sides respectively.

 Now take a leftover piece of the 1/2" conduit, and solvent weld it with PVC cement into the interior of the post at the bottom of the post (the end with a single slit), as it is laying on its side, with the slot oriented ninety degrees to the bottom. You could also use liquid nails to reinforce it after the cement has set. Additionally for a little added stabilty I sprayed in some Great Stuff™ Expanding Foam above and below the lower fence retaining slots to minimize possible movement.

 Let cure overnight!

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image of post on side with mount welded to interior this id from the arced top style fence, but you get the idea

 This is where you set the post onto rebar. I'll explain the method of installing the finished fence shortly.

 All you need to do now is paint the fence. A roller works well on the wood. Use a brush to do the bars and posts. Flat black enamel dries quickly, but is costly. I prefer to use flat black latex (home depot cheap stuff, not Lowes cheap stuff, huge difference, both about $17.00 per gallon) and spray it with an HVLP. I managed to spray 10 sections of fence with less than a gallon of paint by staggering the fence stiles to create more surface area to be sprayed at one time, the over spray lays a base stippling on the fence sections further back in the pile.

 To assemble the sections and posts, pound a piece of rebar into the ground, leaving half above grade, the rest below. Place a post on a piece of rebar, insert one fence section end into the slots of the post. Drop 4" roofing nail into the 3/16" holes you drilled into the ends of the stile.

 Use the next post in the series as a guide for where to pound in the next piece of rebar. Begin to place the next post on a piece of rebar, insert other fence section end into the slots of the post and slide the whole thing down on the rebar. Typically you will need to rotate the post on the rebar as you fit the rails of the fence into the slots on the post.

 Drop 4" roofing nail into the 3/16" hole you drilled. Repeat until fence is assembled in place. If you rest the head of the nail on the upper lip of the post it will hold the fence section in place tightly. It will also facilitate easy removal when you want to break the whole thing down.

 You can use 2" PVC plumbing caps to top the posts.

 For finials try out Ornamental Irons' fluer de lis or spike finials.  You can also try local fencing supply or builders supply companies, as shipping can be steep.

 With these, you will need a heat gun to soften the top of the stiles to slide the finials in place, as the plastic hardens, you will get a very snug fit. You can hot glue or nail them in place once fitted.

 I am considering using c7 flame lamps dipped in clear silicon in the future, for finials on other sections, with hot glue dribbled down the tips of the bars, for the melted wax appearance. I have some yard stakes like this and the look great!

 Now I made 100 feet of fence for under 85.00 bucks including paint, 2"x4"s, all the PVC conduit, endcaps for the posts, long nails to secure the fence sections into the posts not including finials.

 That's under 17.00 bucks for 20' of fence.

 You can check out the original cemetery fence design on this page if you like. Same tools and materials, different results.

Some grave marker pics from the local cemetery for reference.

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