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To start with, this is another low cost fence, though
more expensive that the original arced top with skull finial
fencing in the previous how-to. Again, the greatest single
expense was probably the paint. I found that people
walking by during the month prior and after halloween were
tearing off the skull finials, so I wanted to move those
fence sections into the yard away from the front walkand
replace those sections with something taller, a bit more
formal and with a finial less likely to be removed.
two ten footer sections of fencing, get one 2"x4"x10'
(approx. three bucks), then mark the pieces on center 6"
in from the ends, and then 9" on center between. Drill
these marks through with a 7/8" diameter drill bit.
I used a forstner bit, since I like a clean exit. Before
you put this all to one side, drill a 3/16" hole 1/2"
from each end. Once drilled, cut it lengthwise, into 4 -
This will give you thirteen holes for fence and two mount
A view of one end as it would be after drilling
easiest and fastest if you drill through the 2x4 then cut
into strips creating four rails.
9 pieces of 10' 1/2" diameter PVC electrical conduit
(.87 cents per), the gray stuff with flared ends, to make
your stiles, and cut
them into :
26) 39" long
(save all remainders, and cut sections leaving the
flared ends as your scrap, you will use these later)
Next take two pieces of 2" diameter PVC electrical conduit
per), and cut it into :
These will be
the fence posts.
section of 3" diameter pipe (here the grey is preferred
to the white due to its characteristics to be explained
shortly) cut 1" wide rings, at least 12 per fence
section, and up to 24 depending on how you want your final
design (I went with 12 per).
On a flat,
non-stick surface (wax paper or foil will do fine)
dab a glob of PVC cement on a spot on 2 rings, let the
cement stand for 30 seconds then butt those globs together
creating a figure 8. Put these aside and let sit overnight
if possible. These will be ornamental elements between the
upper and mid rails of your fence posts.
I painted the whole fence
section after it was assembled, but I leave this up to
the fence sections, Use a few pieces of scrap 2"x4"
on the wide side as a guide
to give the height of the bottom stile (1.5") in relation
to the bars.
those together. I found a nail gun with 7/8" brads
worked great and was quick.
slide the remaining rails on the top of the fence stiles, measure
3.5" from the top of the stile and fasten the upper
Take your previously made 3" PVC figure 8s,
and use them to determine the spacing between the upper and
mid rail. Nail the mid rail in place. Slide the figure 8 into
place and fasten to the mid rail by shooting a nail into
the base of the rings into the mid rail, you can flip the
fence and do likewise to the top rail.
The fence should look like above.
these set and cure saw into the previously cut posts to make
a 7/8" slot 3.5" from the top, 3" from the bottom,
and another slot approx. 3.5" down from the bottom of
the top slot aligned on the center
of the posts on one side, or opposing sides, if you intend to
make this a post between fence sections. A tablesaw with a
fence and dado blade make this easy, but you can get away
with a regular blade if a dado isn't handy.
posts cut to length and slotted on one and two sides respectively.
a leftover piece of the 1/2" conduit, and solvent weld
it with PVC cement into the interior of the post at the
bottom of the post (the end with a single slit), as it is laying on its side, with the
slot oriented ninety degrees to the bottom. You could also
use liquid nails to reinforce it after the cement has set. Additionally for a little
added stabilty I sprayed in some Great
Stuff™ Expanding Foam above and below the lower
fence retaining slots to minimize possible movement.
image of post on side with mount welded to interior this
id from the arced top style fence, but you get the idea
where you set the post onto rebar. I'll explain the method
of installing the finished fence shortly.
need to do now is paint the fence. A roller works well on
the wood. Use a
brush to do the bars and posts. Flat black enamel dries
quickly, but is costly. I prefer to use flat black latex (home
depot cheap stuff, not Lowes cheap stuff, huge difference,
both about $17.00 per gallon) and spray it with an
HVLP. I managed to spray 10 sections of fence with less than
a gallon of paint by staggering the fence stiles to create
more surface area to be sprayed at one time, the over spray
lays a base stippling on the fence sections further back in
the sections and posts, pound a piece of rebar into the
ground, leaving half above grade, the rest below. Place a post on a piece of rebar,
insert one fence section end into the slots of the post.
Drop 4" roofing nail into the 3/16" holes you
drilled into the ends of the stile.
the next post in the series as a guide for where to pound in
the next piece of rebar. Begin
to place the next post on a piece of rebar, insert other
fence section end into the slots of the post and slide the
whole thing down on the rebar. Typically you will need to
rotate the post on the rebar as you fit the rails of the
fence into the slots on the post.
roofing nail into the 3/16" hole you drilled. Repeat
until fence is assembled in place. If you rest the head of
the nail on the upper lip of the post it will hold the fence section
in place tightly. It will also facilitate easy removal
when you want to break the whole thing down.
use 2" PVC plumbing caps to top the posts.
try out Ornamental
fluer de lis or spike finials. You can also try local
fencing supply or builders supply companies, as shipping can
these, you will need a heat gun to soften the top of the
stiles to slide the finials in place, as the plastic
hardens, you will get a very snug fit. You can hot glue or
nail them in place once fitted.
I am considering
using c7 flame lamps dipped in clear silicon in the future, for finials on other
sections, with hot glue dribbled down the tips of the bars,
for the melted wax appearance. I have some yard stakes
like this and the look great!
made 100 feet of fence for under 85.00 bucks including paint, 2"x4"s, all the PVC conduit, endcaps for
the posts, long nails to secure the fence sections into
the posts not including finials.
under 17.00 bucks for 20' of fence.
check out the original cemetery fence design on this
page if you like. Same tools and materials, different